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Understanding
Your Needs
Horse ownership can be a rewarding experience, one enjoyed by persons of
all ages through a wide variety of activities, including shows, rodeos,
races and recreational rides. The experience begins, naturally, with the
purchase of your first horse. It is an important step, one which must be
made with equal amounts of education and dedication, for your first
purchase often sets the tone for your lifetime of horseback experiences.
The
first step in horse ownership is asking yourself, “Why do I want a horse?” This
question will help you form
a goal, which in turn, provides the framework for your buying decision.
As a starting point, ask yourself the following:
•
What is my goal?
• Do I want to become a better rider and increase my knowledge of
horses?
• What types of activities do I want to do with this horse?
• How much can I afford to spend on the purchase of a horse, plus
stall rental, feed, training, health care and hauling?
• How much do I know about riding — am I a beginner; will I need
additional riding instruction?
• Will I work with my horse on a daily, weekly or monthly basis?
• How much time can I devote to feeding, care, lessons, shows or trail
rides?
Different
goals require different types of horses and different skill levels of
the rider.
If
you plan to show competitively, obviously, the type of horse will differ
greatly — in level of training, and subsequently, price — than a
recreational riding horse.
Your
overall goal as a horse owner is the foundation for your buying
decision.
Just
as one researches buying a car, you should also do your homework before
purchasing a horse.
Next,
visit a Paso Fino Horse event in your area in order to gain a
perspective on available opportunities. At the event, watch the
competition and try to determine how much work will be required to
achieve your goal. Visit with others in attendance to get an idea of
what it’s like to compete in certain events, and evaluate your goals
to see if they are realistic.
Once
you’ve established a specific goal, the next step is evaluating your
level of horseback skills. Would you categorize yourself as:
•
Beginning, with limited knowledge of horses and riding in general?
• Intermediate, with a basic understanding of riding and knowledge of
a chosen discipline?
• Advanced, with considerable knowledge of horses and competitive at a
chosen discipline?
Your skill level will indicate what kind of horse best fits your needs.
For beginning or recreational riders, a broke, gentle gelding usually is
the best bet. However, beginners with a competitive goal should locate a
horse which has mastered requirements within the chosen activity, or is
“seasoned.” For example, if your goal is to one day become a
competitive professional or amateur owner showing in the ring, it’s a
good idea to find an older, yet sound gelding which has been showed
upon extensively. Find a horse with enough experience to help you
advance your riding skills first, while still allowing you to compete
and hone your competitive talents.
Intermediate
equestrians have a bit more freedom of choice than beginners in that
their horse should demonstrate fundamental activity requirements, as
evidenced by some level of past performance, but they may not
necessarily require a horse with years of experience. However, the horse
should at least be suitable for a desired discipline, or demonstrate
adequate potential.
Advanced
riders have the greatest latitude in buying a horse, as they may be able
to take a young horse which lacks experience and train it for a chosen
activity. While this may be a rewarding experience when accomplished
effectively, it should only be considered by advanced horsemen with
years of experience who have the time to work with the horse.
Where
to find a horse for purchase
It is important that you complete the following steps before you buy a
horse:
• Decide what you want to do with your horse
• Determine what level of rider you are
• Arrange for or build a safe place to stable your horse
• Decide who will feed and care for your horse
Breeder
Referral Program
Pasoregistry Members and Customers can receive a free referral to
members of Pasoregistry's Breeder
Referral Program. This program matches buyers with reputable Paso
Fino Horse breeders who are guided by the Breeder Referral Program's
strict code
of ethics.
Breeders
One of the best sources for purchasing a horse is a breeder. Breeders
normally have a large selection of horses on hand, representing an array
of ages, levels of training and dispositions. The main advantage of
working with a breeder is that you can often gain credible insight about
a horse. You have access to view other horses that have been bred by the
owner; a chance to discuss pedigrees, performance and show records; see
the kind of environment in which the horse was raised and/or trained;
and compare other horses of similar type. The breeder also can discuss
the advantages of particular bloodlines, as well as provide additional
information about his/her individual breeding program.
Owners
Another means to purchase a horse is directly from the owner. The owner
can provide the history of the horse’s performance. Owners also may
give helpful information regarding training and habits. Plus, most
owners will allow prospective buyers to “try” a horse several times
before purchasing. This working one-on-one helps establish goodwill
between buyer and seller. The Paso's
for Sale section and the Paso
Fino Horse Farm Links on our web site are excellent
resources, as they often advertise horse sales and horses for sale by
owner.
Sales
Many beginners often look to horse sales for finding a horse, since they
are geographically widespread and offer horses of different ages,
training levels and prices. However, beginners must first understand
that there are different types of sales, and not all may be the best
place to purchase a horse. To get a better understanding of the types of
sales available, take a look at the following.
Production
A production sale often features horses produced by breeders. A variety
of horses may be offered, including young horses, geldings, mares and
stallions. Horses in production sales are often bred similarly, or have
similar purposes in mind, offering a basis for comparison. These are
excellent opportunities to buy quality; however, horses with extensive
training in a particular discipline may not be offered.
Consignment
In consignment sales, a variety of horses have been consigned by their
owners to be sold. The advantage of consignment sales is that they offer
horses of different ages, sex and training. The disadvantage is that
these horses are obtained from a variety of backgrounds, so you may not
have access to information on disposition and training level. Since
there is little time to view the horse once it is in the ring, it is a
good idea to arrive prior to the sale. If you find a horse you are
interested in purchasing, try locating the owner and discussing such
characteristics as disposition of the horse, health and past
performance.
Dispersal
Dispersal sales may offer a unique opportunity to purchase a breeder’s
lifetime efforts. Like a production sale, a dispersal ordinarily
features stock owned by one particular person or entity, with the age,
sex and training of the horses varying. Because this may be the first,
or last, opportunity to purchase from a reputable entity, prices for
these horses may be higher than at production or consignment sales.
Other
locations for finding horses for sale include:
• Equine listings in newspapers
• “Trading posts” in feed and tack stores
• Local equine veterinarian
• State/Provincial/International Paso Fino Horse Associations
Professionals
Professionals,
such as trainers, can serve as agents for prospective buyers, in
addition to training horses and instructing clients. By discussing your
needs in a horse and your skills, a trainer may help locate a horse that
best fits your goals. Trainers usually charge a commission for helping
you find a horse.
Professionals
can help beginners select a horse. The need for a consultant is
two-fold. A consultant can help you locate, evaluate and negotiate a
prospective purchase. A consultant also can evaluate your skill as a
rider and give you information on your chosen discipline. Beginners
should try to find a professional who works well with beginners, or who
has expertise in your chosen discipline.
Some
helpful questions to ask a professional are:
• What experience do you have in the horse industry?
• What experience do you have in my chosen discipline?
• Who else have you helped and what kind of success have they had
under your guidance?
• How are your fees structured?
• What references do you have from other professionals?
When
you retain a professional to aid you with your riding and competition,
be sure to explain your goals thoroughly to your professional, and
discuss candidly how much you can afford for purchasing a horse, feed,
board, veterinary care and other considerations.
Visiting
a breeder or owner
Once you have found a prospective horse to buy, there are steps which
can be followed which will aid you in purchasing a horse. If you are
visiting the farm of a breeder, owner or professional, it’s a good
idea to start by talking to the seller and establishing a good rapport.
Some excellent questions to ask the seller are:
•
How much has the horse been ridden during the past year?
• Who has ridden the horse the most — trainer, amateur, youth?
• How easy is the horse to handle after being turned out for a while
and not ridden?
• What kind of equipment has been used?
• How much training has the horse received and in what areas?
• Where has the horse been stalled?
• What type of feed and roughage does the horse eat and what is its
feeding schedule?
• What kind of health (good, bad) has the horse had during the past
year?
• Has the horse ever had any colic episodes?
• How often is the horse dewormed or shod?
• Does the horse have any vices? (i.e., cribbing, biting, trailer
shyness)
• How often has the horse been away from home and what is his behavior
in different surroundings?
• How does the horse react when being shod, clipped or dewormed?
• And the best question — Why is the horse for sale?
The
Following can be applied to any breed of horse and is not Limited to
Paso Fino Horses. Some areas may specify the requirements of a Paso Fino
Horse. Always consult your association rule book and breed criteria for
proper conformation requirements. The following is offered as a general
guide.
The Evaluation Process
After you’ve identified and targeted a goal for yourself, and located
a prospective horse, the next step is an evaluation process whereby you
determine if that horse will allow you to accomplish your goal — call
it determining “suitability for purpose.” While it’s safe to say
that any horse with acceptable past performance in your chosen endeavor
is suitable, even beginners should have a basic understanding of the
factors which influence a horse’s abilities within a given activity,
and utilize this information in the evaluation process. What are those
factors? Generally, it can be said there are three: conformation,
disposition and movement.
Conformation
One of the most important criteria in selecting a horse for purchase is
conformation, or its physical appearance. While it could be assumed that
most horses with several years’ seasoning and past performance have
acceptable conformation, your goal in selection should always be to find
the best conformed horse possible, regardless of past performance. The
reason? Horses with less-than-perfect conformation may encounter health
problems as they mature or when stressed through competition. To
determine the required conformation check your associations rule
book.
Rating
conformation depends upon objective evaluation of the following four
traits: balance, structural correctness, degree of muscling, and breed
and sex characteristics. Of the four, balance is the single most
important, and refers to the structural and aesthetic blending of body
parts. Balance is influenced almost entirely by skeletal structure.
To
gain a better understanding of ideal balance in a Horse, there are several helpful ratios which may be drawn in your
mind’s eye. Start by viewing a horse from its profile, and imagining a
straight line determining length of back (the distance from point of
withers to croup) and one along the length of underline (point of elbow
to stifle).
Ideally, the length of back should be one-half that of the underline.
Next, draw an imaginary line down the top line
of the neck (the distance from poll to withers) and the bottom line (the
distance from throat latch to neck/shoulder junction). Ideally, the
top-to-bottom-line ratio of neck should be 2-to-1. Horses which deviate
greatly from these two important ratios, becoming 1-to-1, are often
deemed unbalanced.
What
causes the deviations?
Nothing
is more critical to balance than slope of shoulder. When the shoulder
becomes more vertically sloping, or “straighter,” it shortens the
top-to-bottom-line ratio of neck. The withers move forward as the
shoulder becomes straighter, resulting in a longer back. Thus, the
straight-shouldered horse has the appearance of being a tube.
Since
a short top line and long underline are desirable, it is incorrect to
compare shorter horses to taller horses, because horses of different
sizes should not have the same length of body or underlines. The ratios
are important in determining balance, and these are directly affected by
the slope of the shoulder. Moreover, when the shoulder is straight,
other structural angles in a horse’s body become straight, resulting
in a horse with a short, steep croup, straight stifle and straight
pasterns. These latter traits are undesirable and contribute to a
horse’s lack of balance.
As
balance is directly related to structure, the poorly-balanced horse
often lacks structural correctness and fundamental soundness. In
general, the angle of the pasterns will correspond almost identically
with the angle of shoulder, so that a horse with too much slope to its
shoulder also has weak, sloping pasterns. This condition, called
“coon-footed,” may be so severe as to allow the horse’s fetlocks
to hit the ground as the horse moves. The ideal slope of shoulder is
approximately 45 to 50 degrees, however, the angle may vary from ideal.
You should not be overly influenced in demanding exact degree of slope
of shoulder. Instead, concentrate on balance and blending of structure.
Once
you have evaluated a horse’s overall balance, then structure, muscling
and breed and sex characteristics can be more definitively evaluated by
examining individual body components, starting with the horse’s head.
Head
A horse’s head provides insight into a horse’s total conformation,
as well as its behavior. In general, there is no physiological benefit
to having a “pretty head” on a horse. However, most people don’t
like an ugly-headed horse, so selection is based upon beauty. What makes
an attractive head? The set of ears, shape of eye, size of nostril,
depth of mouth and overall proportionality of the head are important
considerations.
Another
useful tip in evaluating a horse’s head is to visually measure the
distance from the horse’s poll to an imaginary horizontal line between
the eyes. Ideally, this distance is approximately one-half the distance
from the horizontal line to the midpoint of the nostril. Thus, the eyes
will be positioned one-third the distance from the horse’s poll to
muzzle. When the width across the orbit of the horse’s skull is
measured, that distance should be almost identical to the distance from
the poll to the line between the eyes.
The
ears should be proportional to the horse’s head, and sit squarely on
top of the head, pointing forward with an alert appearance. Any
deviation in placement or carriage of the horse’s ears detracts from
the beauty of the head, and thus, the horse’s overall beauty. Since
horses are proportional, length of head is the same percentage of height
for both tall and short horses. Therefore, the term “long headed” is
somewhat a misnomer, as long heads are simply indicative of tall horses.
The
head has qualities that are important when evaluating other factors,
including behavior. Most notably, the eye provides insight into a
horse’s disposition. Large, quiet, soft eyes normally indicate a
docile disposition, while small, “pig” eyes are associated with
horses that are sullen and difficult to train. Look for a bright,
tranquil eye with a soft, kind expression.
Pretty-headed horses will always have a well-defined muzzle,
flaring into a refined chin and prominent jaw. For beauty’s sake, look
for large, flaring nostrils. Regarding depth of mouth, many horsemen
indicate that the shallower the mouth, the softer and more reactive the
horse. Guard against horses which are thick-lipped and heavy across the
bridge of the nose, for these are often less responsive to the bridle.
Finally, make sure the horse is not parrot-mouthed (upper teeth in front
of and over the lower teeth) or monkey-mouthed (lower teeth in front of
the upper teeth).
Neck
After evaluating the horse’s head, move on to the neck. The throat
latch should be trim and refined, with the depth being equal to one-half
the length of the head. If the horse is thick in the throat latch,
flexion at the poll is restricted, and thus, the horse may be prevented
from carrying his head correctly during competition because of an
inability to breathe correctly.
Some
horsemen talk about “long, thin necks,” when in reality, priority
should be given to horses with an appropriate top-line to bottom-line
neck ratio. Again, the top line of the neck to bottom line should be
2-to-1 on a balanced horse. Invariably, horses with shorter necks are
shorter-bodied and since the horse is connected from its poll to tailset,
a horse with a shorter neck may lack the flexion and suppleness desired
for more advanced training.
Shoulder
In addition to overall balance, the slope of the shoulder influences the
length of stride. Thus, the straighter the shoulder, the shorter the
stride. The angle of shoulder and pastern also serve to absorb shock
when the horse moves. The straight-shouldered horse also will be
shallow-hearted, as measured from top of withers to chest floor. Unlike
the balanced horse, with legs that will measure approximately the same
length as depth of heart, the straight-shouldered horse’s legs will be
longer than depth of heart. A straight-shouldered horse will always feel
rough-riding compared to a horse with a desirably sloping shoulder.
Withers
The ideal withers are sharp, prominent and slightly higher than the
horse’s hindquarters or croup. A balanced horse will appear to be
sloping downhill from front to back. When the withers are higher than
the croup, the hindquarters are properly positioned under the body and
contribute to athletic ability. Strength of the top line, over the back,
loin and croup, also is important in athletic ability and overall
balance and soundness.
Barrel
As you view a horse from the front, always evaluate spring of rib and
depth of heart, as they indicate athletic capacity. Select against
horses which have a “pinched,” flat-ribbed look, which do not have a
rounded, convex look to their rib cages.
Hindquarters
When viewed from the side, the hindquarters should appear square. How
the corners of the square are filled in will depend on the breed. The croup should not be too flat
(resulting in too much vertical action in movement) nor too steep
(associated with a collected, but very short, choppy stride).
Feet
and legs
Structure of feet and legs are major considerations when evaluating a
horse’s conformation. When standing beside the horse, drop an
imaginary line from the point of the buttocks to the ground. Ideally,
that line should touch the hocks, run parallel to the cannon bone and be
slightly behind the heel. The horse with too much angle to his hocks is
sickle-hocked, and the horse that is straight in his hocks is
post-legged.
Ideally,
when viewed from the rear, any horse should be widest from stifle to
stifle. Another imaginary line from the point of the buttocks to the
ground should bisect the gaskin, hock and hoof. It is not critical that
a horse be perfectly straight from the ankles down as viewed from the
rear. In fact, most horses naturally stand with the cannons parallel and
toe out slightly from the ankles down. This allows the horse’s stifle
to clear his ribcage in flight, resulting in a longer-striding,
free-moving horse. However, when a horse is bowed inward at the hocks
and the cannon bones are not parallel, it is cow-hocked. The horse that
is cow-hocked has a tendency to be weak in the major movements that
require work off the haunches such as stopping, turning, sliding, etc.
Occasionally, there are horses that actually toe-in behind and are
bow-legged, most of which are very poor athletes.
The
horse should stand on a straight column of bone with no deviation when
viewed from the side. A horse that is “over at the knees” is
buck-kneed, and the horse that is “back at the knees” is calf-kneed.
Obviously, calf-kneed is the most serious condition since the knee will
have a tendency to hyper-extend backward.
When
the horse is viewed from the front, an imaginary line from the point of
the shoulder to the toe should bisect the knee, cannon bone and hoof,
with the hoof pointing straight ahead. When a horse toes out, it is
splay-footed and the horse will always wing in when traveling. When a
horse toes in, it is pigeon-toed and that horse will always paddle out.
The most serious of these is the horse that wings in. If the cannon bone
is off-centered to the outside, it is bench-kneed.
Soundness
and structure
All horses should be serviceably sound. In young animals, there should
be no indication of defects in conformation that may lead to
unsoundness. An unsoundness is defined as any deviation in structure
that interferes with the usefulness of an individual. Many horses will
have blemishes — abnormalities which may detract from the appearance
of the animal — but are sound.
Riding
and movement
After a basic evaluation of conformation and behavior, the next step is
evaluating a horse’s movement. Movement is an important criteria,
particularly when selecting a horse for performance events, as most
arena classes place some level of preference on movement.
For
even a beginning recreational rider, a horse should at least walk and accept leads in both directions. The horse should stop easily
when asked “whoa” by the rider, and yield to leg aids. Ideally,
horses should also demonstrate the following:
•
The walk must be alert, with a stride of reasonable length in keeping
with the size of the horse.
• Demonstrate the required gaits of the respective breed showing a
natural movement when doing so. Horses should accept both leads, and change with little
difficulty.
In
selecting a horse for arena performance, consider the following
criteria:
Western
— The horse should have a free-flowing stride of reasonable length in
keeping with conformation. The horse should cover a reasonable amount of
ground with little effort and carry his head and neck in a relaxed,
natural position, with the poll level with or slightly above the level
of the withers. Ideally, the horse should have a balanced, flowing
motion and be responsive to the rider’s commands, yet smooth in
transition of gaits and leads.
English
— The horse should move with long, low strides reaching forward with
ease and smoothness, be able to lengthen stride and cover ground with
relaxed, free-flowing movement. Horses should be obedient, have a bright
expression with alert ears and respond willingly to the rider with light
leg and hand contact. When asked to extend the trot or canter, the horse
should move out with the same flowing motion. The poll should be level
with, or slightly above the withers. The head should be slightly in
front of, or on the vertical.
Reining
or similar advanced disciplines — The horse should be willfully guided
or controlled with little or no apparent resistance, and responsive to
the rider’s commands. Any movement on his own must be considered a
lack of, or temporary loss of control. The horse should be smooth,
demonstrating finesse, attitude, quickness and authority in performing
various maneuvers while using controlled speed.
Disposition
Probably the most important, and most abstract aspect of the evaluation
process is determining a horse’s disposition. The reason? While a horse
may be impeccably conformed and move like a champ, it still may not
possess the correct frame of mind which will allow both you and the
horse to realize your true potential. Evaluating disposition is
particularly important for beginners. It can be frustrating to try and
learn how to ride a horse which simply isn’t cooperative. The rider
may lose confidence and become afraid — the horse simply becomes
confused. Often, both problems multiply if not corrected via
professional help.
While
evaluating some conformational traits may help determine disposition,
the best method is seeing how a horse behaves when being groomed,
saddled, ridden and trailered. While the seller’s opinions may be
helpful, use your own eyes. Observe the horse being groomed, saddled,
and trailered. Does the horse:
•
Stand quietly when approached by the seller and yourself, or does he
flinch or draw back?
• Halter or bridle without difficulty?
• Paw, set back or lie down when tied?
• Accept the saddle?
• Stand patiently as a rider mounts?
• Load easily into a trailer?
Any
signs of nervousness, pawing, bucking in place, biting or refusal to
comply during grooming, saddling or trailering should be considered
faults on the part of the horse. Since the horse may respond correctly
with the owner, ask the owner if you may perform these tasks yourself,
if you feel comfortable doing so.
Next,
evaluate the horse’s disposition during riding. Does the horse:
•
Walk, trot and lope, and accept these gaits willingly?
• Take both right and left leads easily?
• Respond and stop when asked to whoa, or when pressure is applied to
the bit?
• Back without straining against the bit?
• Follow your commands, or act on its own?
The
horse’s disposition during riding is largely dependent upon the
rider’s skill. While beginning riders may experience varying levels of
resistance or loss of control when performing the aforementioned tasks,
at no time should the horse buck or act as if he is running off.
Ideally, the horse should perform all requirements willingly, with
little or no resistance on the bit. Any bracing or straining against the
bit should be considered faults.
If
you are a beginner, or even an intermediate horse person, it is always a
good idea to have a professional with you if you choose to groom, saddle
or ride a horse. Ask the owner if your professional can ride the horse.
As with any diagnostic process, you are always better off with a second
opinion.
A
good thing to keep in mind through the entire evaluation process is
this: Remember that you are buying not only a horse, but a relationship
with a horse. All horses have different personalities, and it’s your
goal to find a horse that best compliments your personality. While
conformation, behavior and movement all play a role in the horse’s
suitability for purpose and personality, the final analysis often relies
on one simple question: How am I getting along with this horse? The
answer often is derived strictly from intuition.
Purchasing
a Horse
Purchase exam
If a horse seems like a good prospect, and meets your approval through
the evaluation process, you may want to arrange to have a purchase
examination performed by an experienced equine veterinarian. You can
contact the American Association of Equine Practitioners at
1-800-GET-ADVM (1-800-438-2386) to find an experienced equine
veterinarian in your area.
The
purchase exam may involve X-rays and a variety of diagnostic techniques,
but all should include examinations of the following:
•
Eyes and head
• Back and neck
• Nose
• Legs
• Mouth and teeth
• Ankles and hooves
• Ears
• Heart and lungs
• Tail
• Hocks and knees
Although
the veterinarian’s findings may or may not affect your buying
decision, it is always a good idea to have a purchase exam performed in
order to have an experienced medical professional evaluate a potential
purchase.
Physical Conditions To Be Cautious
Of When Buying A Horse / Your Guide for Future Reference
Condition:
Laminitis
(founder)
Symptoms: Inflammation of the hoof, usually affecting
front feet. Affected horse stands with hind feet bunched together under
the body with head low and back arched, rocking. Front feet are placed
forward so weight is on heel of the foot. Difficult to get horse to
move, and then gait is shuffling. Noticeable heat rings on horse
previously affected.
Cause: Numerous factors which
may include excessive consumption of grain, water and grass; concussion
to the feet due to hard work or fast work on hard surfaces; symptomatic
infections.
Treatment:
Reduced diet, anti-inflammatory drugs
Affect
on use:
May reoccur but can be managed if caught early. Horses with laminitis
may be used for light riding depending on the severity of the condition.
Condition:
Navicular disease
Symptoms: Both front feet affected. Horse stands with both feet too far
in front or points alternately with affected toe. When walking, the
affected toe lands first resulting in a choppy stride. Bone and tendons
develop adhesions which cause pain and lameness.
Cause: Upright conformation may weaken the navicular bone resulting
in misalignment of bones in feet and pasterns. Excessive concussions to
the hoof also may increase chances of navicular disease.
Treatment: Anti-inflammatory
drugs, corrective shoeing. Neurectomy (cutting of nerve to delete pain)
offers a more permanent solution. Affect on use: Amount of work dictates
suitability. The more stressful the workout, the higher chance of horse
going lame.
Condition:
Parrot-mouth
Symptoms: Overlapping of the
upper jaw, resulting in overgrown front teeth, malnutrition.
Cause: Inherited condition.
Treatment: Little can be done to rectify problem.
Affect on use: Horses such as these have difficulty in eating.
Condition:
Ringbone
Symptoms: Lameness, swelling of pastern area.
Cause: New bone growth at
surface of pastern bones resulting from trauma to joints by excessive
use or direct blows to pastern areas.
Treatment: Can be verified
through X-ray. Anti-inflammatory drugs, rest and denervation.
Affect on use: Lameness.
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